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This legacy also has a political significance. Tuscany still enjoys a kind of grass-roots democracy through ref-erendums on such issues as whether to ban traffic from the centre of Florence. Florentines will, however, take the law into their own hands, as they did when they fought the police

in 1990 to prevent the closure of San Lorenzo market. Tuscans also scorn the government in Rome and its bureaucracy. Many people want the autonomy they enjoyed before Italy was united in 1870. This has been sharpened by the revelations of institutionalized corruption in Italy.

The Tuscan love of home has resulted in a strong campanilismo: parochialism defined by the sound of the local church bell (in the campanile orbelltower). Social anthropologists see in it a survival of medieval intercity conflicts. It can be observed at many a Tuscan festival when, beneath the pageantry, there is a serious rivalry between a city’s different quarters.

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